Posted by: pckatie | April 24, 2013

A Place to Call Home

If you missed my last post for some reason (like if you aren’t just sitting around all day waiting for Katie’s new blog posts) you may want to scroll down a little and fill yourself in on some recent happenings or you might be a little lost.  Or, if you are the adventurous type, just read ahead and use your imagination to fill in the missing information :)

On Saturday morning I got up early and headed to the bus station to begin, yet again, a new adventure.  I am officially a resident of a costal Colombian city called Santa Marta.  It is one of the three main cities where the Peace Corps currently places volunteers in Colombia.  It is the smallest of the three cities, but is still a large urban setting with around 400,000 people.  I am joining 10 wonderful other volunteers here in Santa Marta (four girls from the group before mine, and six from my group) who do a lot of great work both individually and as a group.  I feel really lucky to have the opportunity to work with them.  On my first night here they took me out and we had a delicious dinner and some really cheap drinks!

I live in a nice neighborhood and I am really centrally located.  I can walk to a mall, an Exito, and a SAO (those last two are large American style super markets).  I can also walk into the center where there are lots of restaurants, bars, and other fun things to do (finances allowing) and to a beach (where I am told I should not swim, but it is still pretty!).  There are lots of beaches that are all a bus ride away and I am looking forward to exploring some of those once I get settled in.

I am living in an apartment complex that is gated and has a 24 hour security guard so I feel very safe here.  I live with an older woman named Cecilia.  She is a widow and lived alone in a three bedroom apartment.  She rents the other room out to a woman who travels a lot for work and seems to be gone much more than she is home.  Cecilia is a retired teacher who worked at SENA for 30+ years.  Now she watches TV in the morning and then goes to the casino to play cards from 3pm-9pm every day.  It is a very different living situation than I had before in that she is not really a ‘host mom’ figure to me, but plays more of a landlady role.  She is still caring, asks me about my day, and sometimes comes and sits in my room just to chat…..but for the first time in Colombia I have complete freedom to do whatever I want.  For example I FINALLY bought an AMAZING fan and it has changed my LIFE (you might think I am exaggerating…unless you have lived 8 months on the Colombian coast!).  I changed my meal arrangement and I am in charge of all of my own food now which has been great.  I will probably get tired of fruit and tuna eventually, but for now I am content :)

My school is called IED Simon Bolivar and is located in a corregimiento (I google translated this word and it told me ‘small town’) about a half an hour from where I live called Gaira.  I am really happy that although I am living in a big city in a nice neighborhood, I am still able to work in a school where there is a lot of need.  Gaira is sandwiched in between an industrial zone and Rodadero (a higher end neighborhood where lots of tourists visit).  I started at my school on Tuesday and we had a really productive meeting in terms of discussing expectations and goals for the program.  The very next day I worked with the coordinator to establish a schedule and that same day I started working!  I will be teaching primary (preschool through fifth grade) Monday through Friday in the morning jornada.  Temporarily I will also be teaching nine hours of English in the afternoons to sixth and seventh grade to fill in for a teacher who has yet to show up this year.  Olga (my program manager) told them this is okay as long as it is temporary.  What they neglected to tell me is that these two groups are two of the most difficult groups in the school….but we started today and things went fine!  I feel really good with the way things have started out at this school.  I think I clicked with the teachers and administrators right away and I am absolutely amazed that I have a schedule and am working the day after I arrived!  It’s a Colombian miracle!

I will update again with pictures as soon as I get unpacked and find my camera!  I don’t have internet at my house yet, but I will soon!  Also, I FINALLY updated my ‘books’ and ‘contact me/wish list’ tabs on this blog!  I have read 49 books since coming to Colombia (I swear I don’t just sit around and read all the time….) and some amazing people have sent me some amazing packages so I took a lot of things off of my list!

I was very sad to leave Bayunca and I still think about the people there on a daily basis, but the spirit and vibe of Santa Marta is so perfect for me I can’t help but feel right at home here.  To those of you in Colombia, thanks for all of your support as I made this transition, it was so easy thanks to all of you!  And to everyone at home I love and miss you all and now I have a beach at my site so COME VISIT ME!

Until next time……paz y amor.

Posted by: pckatie | April 19, 2013

Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes!

142 days ago I was dropped off in a pueblo called Bayunca and welcomed by a community of strangers.  In a short 142 days, that pueblo has become my home and those strangers, my family.  Unfortunately, I am writing today to share that due to a circumstance that is out of my control, I will be leaving Bayunca.  I understand the reasoning behind the decision and I appreciate all of the support I have received from the Peace Corps staff.  While I understand the decision, I cannot help but feel  heartbroken.  I put everything I had into becoming a part of this community, establishing relationships, building an English program, trying new foods, and celebrating traditions.  One day, an elderly Afro-Colombian woman approached me on the street, gathered me up in her arms, planted a big kiss on my forehead and said, “Tú eres Bayunquera!  La gringa Bayunquera!”  It was then I knew I had been successful.  It was my community.

I went out to Bayunca the day before yesterday to gather my belongings and say a quick goodbye to my family.  I can honestly say it was one of the most emotional experiences of my life.  It took all that I had not to cry, but I knew that would only make it harder.  Everyone was with me in my room throwing stuff into suitcases and in less than ten minutes everything I own was in the car and my room was empty.  As I was walking out the door a flood of thoughts ran through my mind.  I wish I had taken more pictures.  I wish I had spent more time listening to my abuelo tell stories.  I wish I had learned how to cook more traditional dishes.  I wish I had made more of a difference in the school.  I wish I could find the words to explain how much this meant to me.  I thought I had more time.  I gave each member of my family a hug, holding on to my abuelo just a little bit longer than the others.  Looking into their teary faces, I smiled and reminded myself ‘how lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard’.  Watching out the window as we drove away, I cried.  I cried for the love I feel for my family, the gratitude I feel for my community and for the lost opportunity for the people who made such a difference in my life.

The past four and a half months have been the experience of a lifetime, and I owe every moment and memory to the wonderful people of Bayunca.  I hope that they know the profound impact they have had on my life and that I will forever remember my time living and sharing in their community, however short the time might have been.

While I was awaiting a verdict on whether or not I would be able to return, I received this from my host aunt:

Llegaste a nuestras vidas en un momento muy dificil, tu presencia nos ayudo a mitigar un poco la tristeza por la que estabamos pasando. Supe que debiamos aprender muchas cosas de ti; la sencillez, el buen genio y ese espiritu de servicio a la comunidad, admirable en un ser humano. Hoy si no regresas todos perdemos. Mi familia; una hija, hermana y tia, porque ya haces parte de ella. Los niños, jovenes y adultos de la comunidad; una puerta que se les cierra.   Estoy segura que regresaras. Te queremos muchisimo.

The love that this family and community have shown me is something I will carry with me for the rest of my life.  A piece of my heart will always belong to Bayunca, the pueblo I called home.

As sad as it is to close this chapter of my life, I can’t help but feel so grateful to have had the opportunity, and I am so excited to see what the next chapter has in store.  I am a little anxious about starting all over, but I know that this is the path I am supposed to be on and everything will work out great.  Tomorrow morning I am heading off to my new site and I will post details about that very soon.

Until next time….paz y amor.

P.S. I just want to give a shout out to the people who have supported me through this change over the past few weeks.  My friends back home, my sister, my Peace Corps family here, and most importantly my parents.  It is your love and support that fuels my positivity, know that I couldn’t do it without all of you :)

“Remember who you are and why you’re here.  You’re never given anything in this world that you can’t handle.  Be strong, be flexible, love yourself and love others.  Always remember—just keep moving forward.”

My host mom, aunts, and uncles. (Numa, Marco, Alfredo, Marco, Marlene, Heidy, Marlin, Marta)

My host mom, aunts, and uncles.
(Numa, Marco, Alfredo, Marco, Marlene, Heidy, Marlin, Marta)

Juan, my 15 year old cousin (wearing my purse)

Juan, my 15 year old cousin acting cool (wearing my purse)

Rocky (not a substitute for Heidi, but I love him)

Rocky (not a substitute for Heidi, but I love him)

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Juan, Alvaro, and a random little kid who wandered in off the street to play games.

Let's never forget that this happened....

Let’s never forget that this happened….

One of my third grade classes.

My wonderful third graders and their newly donated desks.

Marlin and her contagious smile :)

Marlin and her contagious smile :)

Community English class craziness!

Community English class craziness!

Senor Alfredo, father of 11, my abuelo, and best friend.

Senor Alfredo, 94 year old father of 11, my abuelo, and best friend.

The kiddos that make all the struggle worth  wile.

The kiddos that make all the struggle worth wile.

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Posted by: pckatie | April 7, 2013

Spring Break Colombian Style aka Semana Santa

A few weeks ago was Semana Santa here in Colombia which translates to ‘Holy Week’ but I like to think of it as the Colombian version of Spring Break (only with more church).  Everyone has this week off of school so it was our first good opportunity as volunteers to take a vacation and see some more of what Colombia has to offer!  I spent my week visiting Santa Marta (the third costal city where volunteers are placed and the only one I had yet to visit).  Located about a half an hour outside of Santa Marta is Tayrona National Park which was rumored to be home to a variety of wildlife, diverse flora and fauna, and some of the most beautiful coastline in all of South America.  When you add to this the fact that you can hike in and around the whole park…..I was sold!

Entering Parque Tayrona

Entering Parque Tayrona

Sweaty but happy :)

Sweaty but happy :)

We hiked in on Monday and ended up arriving a little later than expected.  At first we were convinced we could continue to our intended destination but we were persuaded by some Colombian police officers to cogela suave and stay put for the night.

Kerry busting out some Spanish skills.

Kerry busting out some Spanish skills.

Arrecifes Beach

Arrecifes Beach

'El Paraiso'  Campsite

‘El Paraiso’ Campsite

The next morning we got up early and hiked the rest of the way to Cabo San Juan de Guia where we spent our second night.  The campsites in the park offer various accomodations from bringing your own tent, renting a tent, renting a cabana, or renting a hammock.  We slept in hammocks for $12 mil a night (about $6 USD).  This was surprisingly comfortable with a few exceptions (aka the night we slept through a torrential downpour and gale force winds).  We spent time at the beach, played a lot of cards, and ate a lot of peanut butter (we brought in our own food to save money…but there was a restaurant).  The morning we woke up ready to hike out it was raining and we debated whether or not we should wait it out.  Eventually we just went and it rained off and on the whole morning.  Although we were soaking wet (from rain/sweat), carrying all of our stuff on our backs which was also soaking wet (from rain/sweat), and we were slipping and sliding through the muddy jungle…..morale remained surprisingly high and there was a lot of laughter (either from good spirits or delirium….).

We love peanut butter.

We love peanut butter.

We made it!

We made it!

Cabo San Juan de Guia

Cabo San Juan de Guia

Hammocks

Hammocks

Next we headed up to Minca, a little town in the Sierra Nevadas outside of Santa Marta, which happens to be the site of a fellow volunteer.  We spent our time in Minca hiking and relaxing at the beautiful hostel which is nestled atop a mountain and has a spectacular view.  In keeping with the tradition of this trip we slept in hammocks here as well which were much more comfortable as they were dry and came with cozy blankets for the chilly mountain evenings.  Once again we brought our food with us because we are cheap, but we treated ourselves to some delicious pizza on our last night.

Sunset from the hostel in Minca

Sunset from the hostel in Minca

Hiking in Minca

Hiking in Minca

PIZZA!

PIZZA!

On Friday we planned on heading home but found out that since it was Good Friday there were no busses running between the cities, so we extended our vacation by a day and spent one more night in hammocks at a hostel in Santa Marta.  We saw some of our friends who live in SM, ate a DELICIOUS dinner (we were stranded…we might as well enjoy ourselves…) and then headed home the following morning.

When arrived at my house my entire host family was there and wanted to hear all about my trip (after thoroughly lecturing me about my sunburns/bug bites/generally destroyed appearance).   I decided since I was very tired and dirty, I would spend a few hours unpacking and cleaning my room and then shower and go to bed around 7pm.  I got SUPER sweaty (doesn’t matter..I was going to shower…right?)  Around 5:45pm my host mom came into my room and told me we were leaving for church.  I put up a little bit of a fight but gave up pretty quickly.  I threw on my church skirt and off we went.  I had to listen to everyone in the entire church tell me I looked tired/sunburned/sweaty/dirty/etc.  The mass lasted about 2.5 hours.  When we came back home I was surprised to find about 25 family members at the house.  Apparently we were having a surprise birthday party for my 94 year old abuelo (which everyone neglected to mention to me).  I endured 25 more lectures about my sunburn/bugbites/general appearance.  We took pictures, ate cake, danced, and listened to my abuelo tell stories.  Around 11pm I finally excused myself, showered, and fell into bed and could have slept for days straight.  Don’t worry…I didn’t….my host mom was knocking at my door for church at 8am :)

My wonderful host family.

My wonderful host family.

All in all, I’m calling my first Colombian Semana Santa a win.  Here’s to next year!

Until next time…paz y amor.

To see all of the pictures from the trip click here.

Posted by: pckatie | March 19, 2013

Chilling Out, Maxing, Relaxing All Cool…..

Did I get your attention with the Fresh Prince lyrics?  That really has very little to do with what I am about to say except that I did some relaxing recently…… Anyways, I usually try to avoid posting a ‘here is a play by play of what I did the last few days’ blog post….but that’s exactly what I am about to do because I just worked with five and six year olds for 10 hours and it’s 94 degrees in my bedroom….and that excuses me from coming up with anything witty or funny today :)

This past week CII-4 (my group of volunteers) had our ‘Reconnect IST’.  On Tuesday we all left our sites and had a week-long conference in Barranquilla.  The Peace Corps put us up in Hotel Caribe which is the same hotel we stayed at six and a half months ago when we first arrived to Colombia (which feels like a million years ago!).  During the day we had sessions on resiliency, reflection, strategy sharing, classroom management, and of course the usual administrative/safety/health sessions.  It was so great to be back together as a whole group.  We have an amazing group of people and I am so inspired when I hear all of the wonderful things volunteers are doing in their sites.  I had set a goal for myself in the beginning to try and stay in site as much as possible for the first three months and it ended up being easier than I thought it would be since I got to know my family so well and spent so much time with people in my community.  It also resulted in the majority of the other volunteers thinking I had fallen off the face of the Earth :)  Now that I feel successfully integrated into my site; I am looking forward to spending more time with other volunteers and making more frequent trips into the city.  I didn’t realize how much I missed the other volunteers until I saw them last week.  I may have said this before, but they are a truly fantastic group of people.

After we finished our sessions each day, we had the evenings free to do whatever we wanted and I took full advantage of being in the city!  I saw a movie, went to multiple malls, and ate delicious food.  I was introduced to a restaurant called Crepes and Waffles where they have delicious salads, crepes, and pitas.  I also had my first Subway in Colombia and even ate some real live Chinese food!  I went to the chain grocery stores (Olympica, Exito, Carrulla) and bought all the things I can’t get in site (apples, peanut butter, yogurt that isn’t Bon Yurt with Zucaritas…).  I think I drank my body weight in Diet Coke.  At the hotel we took hot showers and slept in air conditioning.  It was heaven.  The conference ended on Friday, but almost everyone stuck around for the VAC (volunteer action committee) meeting the following day.  A few other volunteers and I decided to treat ourselves and stay in the hotel for the extra two nights and it was SO worth it.  We had the meeting on Saturday afternoon and then in the evening we went to a cute little bar where some of the volunteers played live music and we celebrated two volunteers’ birthdays.

On Sunday everyone got up early and headed back to site.  I figured even if I went back early there wouldn’t be time to do laundry (I have to start that at like 6am) and I had all my lesson plans ready for the week.  So Colleen and I decided to ‘aprovechar’ the air conditioning in the hotel and somehow managed to convince the hotel staff to let us stay well into the afternoon.  We laid in the air conditioning and watched the Kardashians and it was fantastic.  Eventually the time came and we packed up our bags and headed back to site.  It is an interesting feeling because when I am in site I am very happy and never feel like I don’t want to be there, but after the week of relative luxury I found myself hesitant to go back.  After fighting with the Berlinas bus lady, riding on a sub-zero degree bus for an hour and a half, and fighting with the driver to convince him I knew where I was and actually DID want to get off in Bayunca…….I was welcomed back by the majority of my family on the porch waiting for me and immediately felt happy to be home.

This week is kind of a relaxed week as there is no school Wednesday (something with the Secretary of Education) and Friday is the ‘Festival de Dulces’ (not quite sure what that entails…).  The afternoon jornada was suddenly canceled today for some kind of assembly where they were praying and singing (again…not exactly sure why).  Next week is Semana Santa so we have a week off from school and I am headed out of town on a mini-vaca with some other volunteers.   In other vacation related news, I officially have plans to go to Peru this summer with two of my best friends from home and my parents are officially coming for Christmas!  All in all, life is good on the Colombian coast!

*Question of the week in Bayunca:
“Do you like Pope Francisco?”  I’m always tempted to reply, “Francisco…that’s fun to say!!” (Elf reference). 
 
*Quote of the day:
After a lesson on physical descriptions and an in depth explanation of race and skin color and how to appropriately talk about them-
Student- “Why is Obama black if Americans are white?”
Me- Facepalm

Until next time….paz y amor.

Crepes and Waffles (Round 1)

Crepes and Waffles (Round 1)

Nutella Ice Cream

Nutella Ice Cream

Juan Valdez

Juan Valdez

La Baquette

La Baquette

Sandwiches, bread, and pastries!

Sandwiches, bread, and pastries in the beautiful Barranquilla breeze!

P.S. Check out all of the pictures here.  (I’m warning you now….it’s mostly pictures of food….)

Posted by: pckatie | March 11, 2013

Arepas, Bollo, and Yucca…Oh My!

I have officially been in Colombia just over 6 months! I am starting to fall into a routine with work and things are really starting to get moving! Tomorrow I leave Bayunca to spend the week in Barranquilla for our Reconnect Training with all of the other volunteers in my group. I am really excited to see everyone (not to mention sleep in air conditioning and take a real shower)! I will post a real update soon but for now, here is something fun:Colombian Food A-Z

Note: I am speaking from my own experience. I am making a lot of generalizations about the foods people eat both in Colombia and the US. Of course in the cities some of these things are different (there are import grocery stores, more than one kind of cheese, fast food chains, even McDonalds!) but the majority still apply. I am referring to my experiences, here in Bayunca, a pueblo outside of Cartagena on the Caribbean Coast of Colombia.

Food is fun here in Colombia!

Food is fun here in Colombia!

A:

Arroz- There are more types of rice here than I ever knew existed. If it can be diced/shredded/juiced….they will put it into rice. The three most common here on the coast are plain white rice, coconut rice, and rice with little noodles (I maintain that the noodles are for decoration and do not add any flavor). Common rice dishes with meat are arroz con pollo (chicken), camarones (shrimp), or carne (beef/pork). Other common rice dishes are arroz de zhanahoria (carrot), arroz con uvas pasas (raisin which can be cooked with or without coke), arroz chino (somewhat similar to fried rice) and arroz de ahyuama (squash). I think there is an unwritten Colombian rule that says at least half your plate MUST be filled with rice at every meal.

Arepas- I would say arepas are the number one typical Colombian food. Arepas are basically a cornmeal patty that can be grilled or fried. They are often eaten plain or with butter, cheese, or eggs. Many street vendors sell them filled with hot dogs, carne, pollo, sausage, cheese, and some kind of mystery sauce. They are sold on every street corner and eaten in every house. They are most common for breakfast or a snack but people also eat them for a light dinner.

Street Arepas

Street Arepas

Avena- Avena is oatmeal and is consumed two ways here in Colombia. The first is the traditional porridge preparation (cooked oatmeal with milk, sugar, and cinnamon). The second and in my opinion most delicious way is as a cold beverage. They cook the oatmeal and let it cool, then put it in the blender with milk, sugar, and cinnamon and blend until it is a creamy consistency (similar to drinkable yogurt).

B:

Bunuelo- This is a perfectly round, fried, sphere (a little smaller than a tennis ball) made of cornmeal and cheese. They are traditionally eaten on ‘Noche Buena’ (Christmas Eve) but can also be found at fried food stands and panaderias year round. I was told they are very hard to make. I decided to test this theory and make some. Rocky (the dog) ended up eating the product of this experiment.

Bollo- This is another Colombian breakfast staple here on the coast. Basically bollo is ground up maiz. It is ground up, formed into a little loaf, and then boiled in leaves. People walk around in the streets yelling, “BOLLOOOOOO!” and if you want some you just stand in your doorway and yell “BOLLO!” back at them and they come to your door. Typically they are carrying the bollo in a plastic bucket on their heads. There is bollo limpio (clean…just the corn), bollo de coco (coconut), bollo de mazorca (yellow and actually tastes like corn), bollo de queso (cheese), and bollo de yucca (with yucca…see ‘Y’ for description). It is usually eaten with eggs, cheese, or meat.

Bollo Limpia

Bollo Limpia

Boli- These are basically homemade popsicles. Similar to the ‘bolsa de agua/jugo/gaseosa’ this is frozen juice in a bag (although I think they add something else to make it slightly softer than solid ice). Women sell these out of their homes, walk around town selling them in styrofoam coolers, and sell them during the breaks at school. I am obsessed with boli, but the downside is that most people here don’t filter/boil their water which means trouble for my gringa intestinal system.

C:

Ceviche- Here on the coast there is no shortage of fish and other seafood. There are men who walk up and down the beach pushing carts who will make you fresh ceviche. Before you get too excited….when you order the ceviche the man will take a plastic cup and fill it with a mix of cooked seafood (shrimp, conch, tiny clams, tiny crab). Then he will cover it with garlic infused vinegar, ketchup, and mayonnaise. If you want hot sauce, salt, and pepper he will add those too. Stir and serve. It is often room temperature (and when I say room temperature I mean the temperature the air here on the equator).

Ceviche cart in La Boquilla

Ceviche cart in La Boquilla

D:

Dogs (hot dogs)- I don’t know if it is because the meat is cheap or if Colombians just LOVE hot dogs….but I have eaten more hot dogs in Colombia than in my entire life in the US. They eat hot dogs with eggs, in arepas, in empanadas, on a bun covered with toppings, and pretty much any other way you can think of to eat a hot dog. I like hot dogs…but I am a 100% beef, all natural, no nonsense kind of hot dog eater. I will just say the hot dogs here do not generally meet these standards :)   They also range in size from normal bun length to garden hose length.  Hot dogs here are called salchichas (which is also the word for daschunds or wiener dogs).

My 'perro salchicha' back home...Heidi :)

My ‘perro salchicha’ back home…Heidi :)

E:

Eggs- Eggs are a staple of the Colombian diet. They are usually eaten for breakfast and accompanied by an arepa, bollo, meat, or bread. If you are going to eat eggs in Colombia, you have two choices of how you would like them cooked: scrambled (sometimes with onions and tomatoes) or fried to a brown crisp. Also, eggs are brown and not refrigerated here. We buy our eggs in a huge pack of 48 from an open air market and then store them on the counter. From what I hear the US is one of the only countries that refrigerates eggs.

F:

Fritas- Colombians LOVE fried foods. They are refered to as fritas and are sold on every corner, from every home, in every school kiosk, and every market. There are many varieties but the most common are arepas (cornmeal patty), empanadas (half moon shaped cornmeal stuffed with cheese or meat), deditos (like a cheese stick), patacones (fried plantains), pasteles (a pastry stuffed with cheese or meat), and these huge balls stuffed with mashed potatoes, meat, and cheese (I don’t know what they are called). People usually eat fritas with juice, soda, or avena as breakfast or a snack.

G:

Galletas- In Spanish I learned that galletas means cookies…but here in Colombia they use galletas when referring to both crackers and cookies. People here eat a lot of crackers and cookies. Everyone always seems to have a pack in their purse or pocket. It is also mandatory to share when you are eating a packet of cookies or crackers (it is also mandatory to accept said sharing of crackers and cookies).

Gallo criollo-From what I understand, this is basically the equivalent of a free range chicken. They buy them straight from the fincas. Men also walk around with a handful of these chickens hanging by their feet. They bring one home, boil it, pull out all the feathers, gut it, and then usually drop the whole bird into the sancocho pot. They claim these chickens taste MUCH better than regular chickens (which we buy from the carneceria).

H:

Hielo-Ice. I can’t speak for all of Colombia….but here in Bayunca, ice is like GOLD. I attribute this to the fact that almost no one has a freezer. If they do have a freezer, it is nowhere near cold enough to make/maintain ice. This means there is never ice in any drinks. Every once and awhile if there is a special guest someone decides is worthy of ice, we set out to buy some. This means walking all around the pueblo asking if anyone knows who has ice. If you are lucky enough to find someone who managed to freeze some water in a bag and purchase this ice, your next task is running back home, smashing it up, and getting it in a glass before it returns to a completely liquid state (I have yet to drink anything with ice…..)

I:

Iguana Eggs-It is illegal to consume, collect, or sell iguana eggs due to limited numbers. For this reason, iguana eggs are a hot commodity. I have, on numerous occasions, witnessed someone catch an iguana (no easy feat), slice it open, and pull out the eggs. Some people sew the iguanas back closed and release them (not because they are animal lovers….but so they can produce more eggs) and others just leave them to die. The eggs are either eaten raw or cooked and left in the sun for long periods of time to make them harder. Iguana eggs have a soft shell and you basically just rip the shell open and suck out the egg.

P1040936

Huevos de Iguana

J:

Jugo- People here drink juice like it is water (which ironically they do not drink much of). In the home people drink juice with all three meals. It is also customary to offer anyone who enters your home a glass of juice (this juice must be accepted). To make the juice they dice up the fruit and put it in the blender with water and an absurd amount of sugar. Then they strain out all of the pulp/seeds. Sometimes juices are made with milk instead of the water for a creamy consistency. Some juices are left chunky (usually watermelon). Some common juices here are watermelon, papaya, melon, maracuya (passion fruit), corrozo (kind of like cranberry), mora, lulo, guava, guanabana, orange, and pineapple.

Jugo

Jugo

K:

Ketchup- Condiments are big here and the biggest of all is ketchup. They use ketchup to cook and it can be found in lots of dishes. For example, pasta dishes are usually noodles covered in ketchup. The most common beef dish here in Bayunca is grilled beef cooked with tomatoes, onions, and ketchup. If something doesn’t have enough flavor….add ketchup.

L:

Liver- I don’t know if this is everywhere or just in Bayunca, but liver is a very common meat choice. I often have grilled liver for breakfast with eggs or for dinner with rice. At first I didn’t like it, but compared to the other meat we get it is not so bad…at least it doesn’t have fat!

M:

Mazamorra de Guineo- This is similar to peto (see ‘P’) but also has mashed up plantains or bananas added. This one is definitely a food as it is much thicker and served with a spoon.

Mani Moto-This is the brand name of the ‘mani cubiertos’ that are sold widely here in Colombia. When I went to Costa Rica I was obsessed with the ‘cacahuates japones’ which were covered peanuts. Mani Moto are basically the same thing and are a common snack here.

N:

Natilla- This is a dessert that is traditionally made for ‘Noche Buena’ (Christmas Eve). It is similar to flan/custard. It is basically dulce de leche that is thickened with cornstarch and sweetened with panela and cinnamon. It can also have coconut or raisins.

imagesCA5WR2WX

O:

Organs- I think that as a whole, people in Colombia eat a larger variety of parts of the animal than we generally do in the US. In Bayunca specifically, we eat a LOT of strange parts of animals. I believe this is because the carecerias in Bayunca butcher the animals in their homes and then sell everything that day as there is nowhere to store large quantities/portions of meat. When I walk to school I pass ALL parts of the animals hanging on hooks in front of these homes. We regularly eat liver and lung. I have also had heart and intestine. They eat parts of the animal I did not know people ate (i.e. cow chest, ankle, etc.) What can’t be eaten is made into soup. My former vegetarian-self winces a little bit every time I sit down to one of these meals, but it’s all a part of the experience. There will be plenty of humus and veggie burgers waiting for me in two years :)

Pig's Lungs

Pig’s Lungs

P:

Peto- I’m not sure if this is considered a food or a drink. I want to say food because it involves chewing and is a pretty thick consistency, but then again it is served in a cup with no utensils. Basically it is hominy (like is in the mexican pozole soup) which are crushed with a mortar and pestle, then soaked in water with some powder that I don’t know what it is, and finally it is cooked until it is soft and mixed with milk and panela (like brown sugar). People walk around pushing wheelbarrows with big silver pots of peto and you can buy a big cup of it for 500 pesos (about 25 cents).

Pan de bono- Little rolls made with cornmeal, yucca starch, queso costeno, eggs, and water. It is like a chewy little biscuit that you can’t quite figure out what it tastes like. The best ones are sold from a chain kiosk called Mr. Bono where they also sell the best avena.  They are also sold in panaderias, tiendas, and in my host aunts kitchen.

Plantains- These are another staple on the carribean coast of Colombia. My host family was SHOCKED when I said we don’t eat them in the states. There are yellow and green plantains (the yellow are ripe). The most common preparation is patacones which entails cutting up a green plantain, frying it once, smashing them into disks, then frying them again. Plantains are also grilled or boiled.

The round yellow things are fried plantains.

The round yellow things are fried plantains.

Q:

Queso Costeno- Or as many of the volunteers affectionately refer to it ‘sponge cheese’. This is the most common cheese here on the Caribbean coast (and in the case of Bayuna…the only cheese available). The people who sell it have huge blocks of it set out on their table where it sits in the sun and open air all day. It is similar to the Mexican Queso Fresco but much saltier. You tell them how much you want (i.e. 2.000 pesos worth) and they cut you off a hunk. It is white, looks like a bathroom sponge, and is watery, salty, and squishy. Sometimes they try to heat it in a sandwich or an arepa but it is usually resistant to melting.

Sponge cheesse street vendor.

Sponge cheesse street vendor.

R:

Rabbit- Rabbit is most commonly eaten in soup. After much protest, I was assured by my family that there are two types of rabbits. The rabbits that people keep as pets, and the rabbits they use for food. I was not pleased, but I ate it like the good host daughter I am :)

S:

Sancocho- Basically another word for soup. When people refer to sancocho they are usually referring to a soup that is cooked in a huge metal pot, often over an open fire (at least here in Bayunca). You can make sancocho with all different types of meat but it usually has chicken, beef, or bones (or some combination of the three). In addition, it has plantians, potatoes, yucca, and lots of spices and herbs. It is cooked for a long time and then served with white rice. In Bayunca we eat sancocho out of a totuma bowl which is made by drying the shell of a fruit. You use a wedge of this shell as a spoon. This means the meat often ends up being eaten with your hands (maybe there is a better way..but I have yet to discover it). Sancocho is made for most celebrations and holidays because the family can gather around all day and drink/dance while the soup is cooking.

Sancocho

Sancocho on the stove.

Suero- This is the Colombian equivalent of sour cream. I actually don’t know what it is or how it’s made. All I know is we buy it in a plastic bag from the lady on the corner. It is very strong tasting. People usually eat it on arepas, bollo, or patacones. In my opinion….it’s pretty rank.

T:

Tinto- Tinto refers to black coffee with sugar. They drink coffee here out of little plastic cups the size of shot glasses (it costs 100 pesos…about a nickel). If you are in a restaurant or home they serve it in tiny little coffee cups that look like they are for a little girl’s tea party with her dolls. Everyone here uses instant coffee. Every house always has a thermos of tinto ready and waiting for visitors. Similar to the juice rule…when you enter someone’s home, they will offer you tinto. Do not be fooled, this is not actually a question. Take the tinto.

Tinto vendor

Tinto vendor

U:

Uvas-Grapes do not seem to be as common here as they are in the US. At New Years it is a tradition to eat/feed someone like 12 grapes (everyone was so drunk by midnight no one could explain it to me). In December and January there were a lot more grapes being sold and consumed. They are huge and have big seeds in them. My Abuelo Alfredo insists on peeling them and taking the seeds out (which he does with a pocket knife) before he puts the grape in his mouth. Maybe that’s why we never have grapes……

V:

Variety- Okay so that’s technically not a food but this is food related. While there is a lot of variety available, people tend to stick to a basic group of foods and rotate amongst the same meals. I think this is more true here in Bayunca, because my host aunt lives in Cartagena and I know for a fact her kids eat hamburgers and pizza on a regular basis (of course that has nothing to do with me HAPPENING to be at her house around meal time….).  For example in my house I know that breakfast will be either fruit, arrepas, or eggs and bollo. Lunch will either be soup or beef, fish, or chicken with rice and salad or plantains. Dinner will either be a sandwich, pasta, or meat and rice. Juice will be served with all three meals. There is never a variation of these basic meals. Ever.

Typical lunch or dinner. Fish, coconut rice, plantains.

Typical lunch or dinner. Fish, coconut rice, plantains, juice.

W:

Whiskey-Second to aguardiente (the Colombian alcohol that literally translates to burning water), whiskey is the most popular alcohol here. They take shots of it and also drink it on ice. Here in Bayunca the women don’t usually have a glass of their own, but they take drinks from their husbands glasses when no one is looking. The women almost always end up drunker than the men, even though they ‘weren’t drinking’.

Water- I may have mentioned once or twice that it is pretty hot here on the equator. On average I drink just under 100 oz of water each day (in addition to all the juice). I can honestly say that of the three people I live with, I have only ever seen one of them drink water. In general, water just isn’t as important to people here. If you’re thirsty or hot….you drink juice!  One thing that is fun/challanging depending on who you are (I started out in the challanging category but have successfully moved to fun) is that the water (and juice/soda) is sold in bags!  There are also bottles but they are usually about three times the price.  You just buy the bag, bite the corner off, and suck out the water!  Just make sure you’re really thirsty because setting the bag down is another question…..

Bolsa de Agua

Bolsa de Agua

X:

I’m pretty sure there are no foods that start with X.

Y:

Yucca- Also called cassava is a root vegetable. It long and cylindrical in shape and very hard. It is boiled in salted water and eaten as a side dish like you would eat a potato. It is also served as a snack with cheese or in soups.

Yucca

Yucca

Z:

Zanahorias- Carrots are one of the most widely available vegetables, but people do not eat them raw like we do in the states. Occasionally they are shredded raw and used in a sweet salad with raisins. Carrots are not long and skinny here, they are short, fat, and cone shaped. I eat them raw and whole and my family calls me a rabbit and thinks it is hilarious.

Carrots

Carrots

Until next time…paz y amor.

Posted by: pckatie | February 28, 2013

Things I Think are Funny

Things I find humor in that keep my life here in Bayunca interesting:

Music: If I had to describe the music here in one word it would be loud. I know multiple people who live in shacks made of sticks and trash bags who have speakers stacked up outside 12 feet tall (with an extension cord running all the way down the street to the house with electricity). There is a variety of types of music here on the coast, but they are all very upbeat and loud. The other day I was sitting on the patio working on a lesson plan with Dave Matthews Band playing (at normal volume) in the background. I am surrounded at all times by groups of 5-10 children, and on this particular day it was about 10 teenage girls. One of them asked me what I was listening to and I told her what it was. They all stood staring at me for a minute and finally one said, “How do you dance to it?” I pondered that for a second and then started shuffling around in what I thought were appropriate DMB dance moves. More blank stares and then, “But….how do you DANCE to it?” Once again my gringa dance moves have failed me. Apparently if you can’t bump and grind to it, it’s not going to fly with the Bayuncan youth….sorry Dave!

Religion: I don’t think it comes as any surprise to anyone that people here (in general) are very religious…the vast majority being Catholic. My most recent religious adventures include Ash Wednesday and the resignation of the Pope. On Ash Wednesday some of the teachers decided we should take all of the Catholic kids to the 10am mass (we’re talking at LEAST 100 kids). If fire codes existed here, I would say the church in Bayunca has a maximum capacity of about 150. On Ash Wednesday there were easily 300. I was sitting in a pew build for 6 with about 15 kids. The kid on one side is telling me he is not Catholic, he is in a cult. I am in the middle of shushing him when the kid on the other side looks at me and says, “I peed”. My ashes were mixing with sweat and turning to mud and I began to wonder if this is what Jesus had in mind. On the day of the announcement of the Pope’s resignation, I awoke to a pounding on the front door in the early hours of the morning. When I came out to see what all the fuss was about…it was a neighbor who was running door to door making sure everyone had their TV on to see the news. After watching 2 hours of coverage with most of the extended family who came running from all over the pueblo, Marlene suddenly looked up and said, “Imaginase…..VAMOS SIN PAPA!” Which basically means, “Can you imagine? We’re going without a Pope!”

School: Here on the coast, school is VERY different than what I am used to back in the states. For example, school starts at 6:45 and I am lucky if we have started anything by 8am. School ends at 12:45 and the school is empty by noon every day. The bell to signal the start and end of class is the same sound as is used for a tornado warning and can be heard throughout the entire pueblo. The classroom management is somewhat more relaxed than I am used to (for an idea of what it is like click here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO4X8_c80kg). School can be canceled without prior notice or approval. It’s raining? No school. There’s no power? No school. No water? No school. Teachers need to have a meeting? No school. Festival in Bayunca the night before? No school. Teacher didn’t show up? No school. False rumor got spread that there would be no school? No school.

Ahorita: Literally ‘ahorita’ means right now….it’s meaning here on the coast is up for interpretation. I have refered to ‘costeño time’ (a Colombian costal take on the popular idea of ‘island time’). I say a meeting will start at 7pm and I will be lucky if anyone arrives by 8pm. When someone says ‘ahorita’ they could be referring and time between the next few seconds….and anytime the rest of that day. When I first got to Colombia and had not caught on to this particular nuance, every time someone said, “vamos ahorita” I would grab my things and head towards the door only to be left waiting for hours. I made a new definition for ‘ahorita’: Right now…or as soon as I take a shower, sweep the dirt in front of the house around, cook dinner, watch a few novelas, catch up on all of the chisme in the barrio, offer everyone juice, and then stand around talking about how we need to leave ‘ahorita’ but don’t actually leave for at least ten more minutes.

Spoons: I know that people own forks and knives here in Bayunca, because I have seen them used at important dinners with important people. Apparently I do not fall into this important people category, because I have been eating all of my meals here with a spoon. This seems to be completely normal as I have eaten dinner in many different people’s homes and every time it’s all spoons. Sometimes this is not a problem, for example, when eating rice or soup. It becomes more challenging when it is a soup with large chunks of plantains, potatoes, and meat, but is still manageable with a small amount of splashing. Where the real test comes in is when you sit down to dinner and find a piece of meat (usually the toughest meat you have ever encountered in your life). For me there is an added disadvantage in that I eat with my 94 year old grandpa and they pre-cut his food for him so I can’t even steal ideas on how to eat a steak with a spoon. I still have no solution to this one. I’ll keep you posted on the spoon saga.

Climate: I think I have mentioned a time or two that it is pretty hot here on the equator. It is pretty much between 80 and 90 degrees year round with a high UV index and a lot of humidity. That being said, the months of November through March are considerably cooler in the evening and early morning. When I say considerably cooler, I mean like upper 70’s or low 80’s with a little less humidity and sometimes a nice breeze. For me this means that after the sun goes down I breathe a sigh of relief and know that as long as I don’t move too much, I can go the rest of the night without sweating. For my family, this means they FREAK OUT about being ‘cold’. My host mom will be sitting watching TV and at about 5 minute intervals she will dramatically shiver and say, “AYYY NOOOOOO, tengo friooooo!” For someone who has lived their entire life here where it is like a combination of a really hot sauna and the face of the sun, I guess I can understand. But for the record, it is not ‘cold’ here. Ever.

Food: It probably seems like I talk about food a lot. That would be because it is probably the most important thing here behind music/dancing. I have a discussion with at least one of my female family members every single day about the fact that I am in fact not going to starve to death if I don’t eat like a lumberjack at every meal. Here are the food rules: 1. If someone offers you food, you MUST eat it. 2. If you have food, you MUST offer some to everyone around you. 3. Juice, tinto, peto, and avena do not count as food…you MUST eat actual food in the morning. 4. You MUST drink your entire bag of water/juice because setting it down is likely to result in you wearing the contents of the bag. 5. Every single plate MUST be filled with enough white rice to solve world hunger.

Animals: Prior to living in Bayunca, the only time I ever saw cows, pigs, roosters, and other farm animals was if I went to the zoo or a petting zoo (at in that random space where bulls live at Tatum and Bell in Phoenix). Now, I see cows, pigs, roosters, chickens, horses, and burros on a daily basis. Normally they are just wandering around and I do not understand how they know who owns which animals. People also have these animals living in their backyards (and wandering through their houses). My favorites are of course the babies….there is nothing better than passing little piglets or baby chicks meandering down the road! I especially love one baby cow who I named Juanita. I stop at talk to Juanita on my way to school and when I pass every day the family who owns here says to her, “Tú amiguita está aquí!” (You’re little friend is here!) The family and their neighbors also refer to her as Juanita now. I am definitely leaving my mark on Bayunca.

Gossip: If there is one consistent truth in my life here in Bayunca, it’s that EVERYONE will know about EVERYTHING that I do. I have to be careful not to do anything that could damage my reputation because around here chisme spreads like wildfire.

Examples-
#1 I stopped at the drogeria to buy vapor rub because I heard it is good for mosquito bites. When I got home (literally less than 5 minutes later) my host mom and my host aunt (who had come over specifically for the interrogation and must have run because she lives equal distance from my house as the drug store) were standing in front of the house waiting to ask if I was sick. No, I am not sick. Then why did you go to the drug store? To buy vapor rub. Because you’re sick?
#2 I wake up around 5:45am every day and on Sunday’s I sleep in until around 7:30 or 8:00. One Sunday after staying up very late I decided to sleep in. Around 8:45 there was a pounding on my door and my host aunt yelling, “Katy! Katy estás bien?!” I opened the door to find my entire family standing around worried about me because I slept 45 minutes later than usual. Later that day a complete stranger said to me, “I heard you slept in today!”
#3 Yesterday a woman told me to give her my dirty laundry and said she would do it for me since she was doing her family’s laundry anyway and she has a pila (at my house we just use buckets). I thanked her for her generosity but told her I would do it myself. She asked how long it’s been since I have done laundry. I estimated about a week and a half. She said, “I heard it’s been three.” I did laundry the next day…….
#4 When I am walking through the pueblo, everyone stops me to talk, and the first questions is always, “Where are you going?” By the time I get wherever I am going, everyone there already heard I was coming. Apparently Bayuncan word of mouth travels faster than I do.

Until next time…paz y amor.

P.S. MIL GRACIAS to all those of you who have sent me packages/letters/emails…I really appreciate hearing from you and it makes home feel a little bit closer! I am able to get on Facebook sometimes now, but email or mail is still best (click on my contact tab for info!).

PPS. I promise to upload more pictures soon…I have been really bad about taking pictures the last few months and the internet is SO SLOW!

Posted by: pckatie | January 28, 2013

Two Months in Bayunca!

*NOTE:  As I have not been able to update anyone for about a month and a half, and as these were my first weeks in site, a lot has happened!  I have received a lot of emails with questions and it is easiest for me to answer everyone at the same time!  This is going to be a long post….in the future they will be more frequent and condensed!

*Second Note: I wrote this on January 10th.  I wasn’t able to post it until today.  I have started working in the school and on some community projects and will update soon J

Hola from Bayunca….. the pueblo I am now proud to call home!  I have been here for seven weeks and the time has flown by.  I do not have internet here in Bayunca and after weeks of researching, asking around, going door to door, and various trips to Claro I have come to the unfortunate conclusion that I am not going to be getting internet.  It appears that Bayunca is just not quite ready for WiFi!  I bought a modem that allows me to connect (albeit VERY slowly) to the internet when there is a cell signal (however this is not very promising as we are currently going on two weeks without a signal).  So it looks like I will be using the internet when I get the opportunity (sometimes at the school, in Cartagena, or when I get lucky and the modem decides to work!).  The best (really only) way to keep in touch with me will be email.  You can (and please do!) send me an email and I will check them when I get internet, save them, write responses, and reply the next time I have internet.  Also, an update on the mail situation.  I have successfully received two packages and each took about 9 days to get here sent in the US Postal Service regular mail.  One was in a small box and the other was in a padded envelope and both arrived unharmed!  I have a new address that seems to work better so if you are going to send something email me and I will share the address with you…I don’t want anyone to lose anything else in the mail!  Okay, enough with the logistics…….after a seven week communication hiatus you may be wondering what I am doing here in Bayunca?

Let’s recap (I’m going with an FAQ format….)

What’s your host family like?

I live with Marlene (a 50ish year old woman), Numa (a 50ish year old man), and Alfredo (a 93 year old man).  Alfredo is the father and he has 11 children between the ages of 40 and 60 (Marlene and Numa are two of them).  Of these eleven children, each has between 2 and 4 children of their own.  Of the grandchildren, each of them have 2 or 3 of their own children as well.  Basically what I am implying is that the family is absolutely huge.  I have personally met at least 60 family members and I interact with about 20 on a daily basis.  Our front door is always open and people just wander in and out at all hours of the day (usually for no apparent reason).  Almost all of the grand children and great grandchildren (ranging in age from 3 to 37) are boys and I am experiencing what it is like to have brothers.  The girls are all much younger than me (the oldest is 15) so the one I spend the most time with is Alexandra.  She is 33 and has three children between the ages 11 and 15.  Somehow there is no one the same age as me in the entire family.  The closest are 18, 20, and 32 (and all three are men).  I absolutely LOVE my host family.  I feel like I have known them forever and they couldn’t be any nicer.  Marlene is great because she doesn’t have children so she isn’t the typical smothering Colombian mother type which gives me some more freedom.  Her sister Marlin (who is here almost all day, every day) is my mother figure here and is exactly what you picture when you think of a Colombian mother (she crosses me, kisses me, pats me on the head, tries to feed me all the time, and bosses me around).  

 

What is Bayunca/your house like?

Bayunca is a relatively large pueblo (to put it in perspective you could walk the whole town, but in comparison to other pueblos it’s considered large) that is located about 45 minutes outside of Cartagena.  The majority of the population of Bayunca is AfroColombian.  It is surrounded by fincas (farms), lots of flat land with cows and horses, rolling hills, and trees with anteaters in them.  Once you enter Bayunca it is not quite as green as you would expect because the nature was leveled to build the town (many people seem to be under the impression I live in a jungle…this is not the case).  There are two paved roads that run through town (one is the highway) and the rest of the roads are dirt/mud.  There is electricity and water but both have frequent outages (like three or four times a week).   The power outages are generally pretty short (an hour or two) but the water outages last longer.  The most fun is when the lights go out and I am in the shower (which has happened three times).  The water isn’t really a problem because Bayunca only got running water about two years ago so the homes are still equipped with huge water storage tanks which they keep filled for when there are water outages.  So while the water frequently goes out, I have never been without water.  There is no sewage system in Bayunca so the sewage runs in canals on the sides of the streets to a nearby creek.  This does not smell or look as bad as you would imagine….it’s kind of like green, watery mud that you just  hop over J  A few of the nicer houses have septic tanks (I live in one of them) so there is no sewage river in front of my house.  The toilet fills with drainage water from the shower so if you need to flush the toilet and no one has showered recently you open the bathroom window and scoop water from a tub and pour the water into the toilet. 

 

Almost everyone who lives in Bayunca also works here and the large majority work out of their homes.  My family has a tienda in the house where they sell plastic disposable goods.  Almost every house sells something or provides a service (hairstyling, butchering, tailoring, internet, clothing, etc.)  There are also a number of houses with ‘restaurants’.  When you walk through town it literally looks like one huge strip mall because every house has a store front.  You can get almost anything you need here, although the prices are higher because they are brought in from Cartagena and then marked up in order to make a profit.  I have found that many of the products I use (particularly hair products for my gringa hair) are not available here.  There is no post office or bank/ATM so I have to go into Cartagena to take out money to pay my family.  There is no grocery store here but there are lots of tiendas, carnecerias, and panaderias where we buy food. 

 

The houses vary in condition from very nice (where I live) to very modest.  The houses on my street are made of concrete with tin roofs.  My house is very nice and has been completely remodeled within the last year and has plaster walls painted white, wooden doors with metal handles, tile floors, and modern fixtures.  On the other hand there are many houses made of tin, broken pieces of wood, cardboard, palm, and mud with dirt floors.  The majority of the houses are somewhere in between these two extremes.  The average house is made of cement or wood, tin roof, open windows without glass, cement floor, and most have sheets hanging where doors would be. 

 

Colombia is on a strict strata system (stratas 1-6 which I believe are based on income).  In Barranquilla I lived in a strata 4 neighborhood.  Bayunca has stratas 1 and 2.  There are some families that are doing just fine (for example the family that I live with).  I don’t mean to say that money is not an issue for them, but rather that they are not living in abject poverty as are some of the families in Bayunca.  In my home there is always enough money to pay bills, enough food of good quality for everyone, and they have a car which they bought as a whole group.  There are many families who are living far below the poverty line.  There are many foundations and organizations who have already established themselves in Bayunca.  One of the most common is one where people in the US ‘adopt’ a child from Bayunca.  They receive a picture of the child and their home and then make monthly donations (monetary or material) to their ‘adopted’ child.  The problem with this is that the money or the items come directly to the family and often the child never benefits from the donation.  The parents use the money for themselves and the kids are often seen on the streets trying to sell the donated items.  There are kids who are clean, healthy, well dressed and fed.  There are also a lot of kids who do not have shoes, are covered in dirt, haven’t eaten in days, and have never been to a doctor.  I knew that there was a lot of disparity between Cartagena and the surrounding towns, but I was not prepared for such disparity within the same pueblo. 
Although it is a larger pueblo, everyone knows everyone.  I have gone out (when I say go out I basically mean walking up and down the main road and occasionally stopping at a tienda) with some of the cousins and when I get home everyone already knows everything I did, where I went, and who I was with. Generally speaking the people in Bayunca are very welcoming, laid back, and happy people.  They work very hard and then spend a lot of time relaxing and having fun (i.e. drinking, sitting on the porch, or dancing…usually a combination of all three). 

 

What about work?

I arrived in Bayunca just as the school year was coming to an end.  I spent the first week and half going to school every day to take part in the end of year festivities (graduation, ‘Dia de los Mejores’, etc.)  I was invited to the end of year paseo on a finca outside of Bayunca where we ate sancocho and I got to know all of the teachers better.  After December 14th the school is officially on vacation and since all the teachers live in Cartagena I was left to get to know Bayunca.  Teachers return to school on January 14th and students return on January 28th.  I am going to go on the 14th because I want to be involved in whatever is going to happen for the two weeks before school starts.  My guess (based on my observation at the end of last year) is that not much will be going on.  I hope to establish a schedule for the year with the principal and if I can accomplish that I will be happy.  My standards of what is considered an accomplishment have changed drastically since coming to Colombia.  Things generally move very slowly here.  When I get to school it is basically required that I stand around greeting everyone for a solid half an hour before we actually start anything.

 

I was under the impression that I would be working with the high school students in the main school site.  I found out that the school is really interested in having me work with primary which is wonderful news for me as I am a primary school teacher…and I love little kids!  There is only one school (IED Bayunca) but it is split into three sites.  The main site is right across the street from my house and has 6-11th grade.  The other two sites are about a 10 minute walk from my house.  They are much smaller and have all of the preschool-5th grade students.  There are two jornadas (sessions) at the school.  The morning is from 6:45 to 12:30 and the afternoon is from 1:00 to 6:00.  In deciding where/with whom I will work I voiced the opinion that I agree with the administration that I should work in primary.  The high school English teachers speak relatively good English and have a fairly stable and developed English program (although it could certainly use some work…and I hope to give methodologies workshops).  In the primary school none of the teachers speak ANY English.  When I looked over the English curriculum with the primary teachers…they weren’t able to read the curriculum as it was written in English (a list of topics: fruits, animals, numbers, etc.)  There is an English teacher who goes into the classrooms to give English class.  However he only works with 4th and 5th grades.  This means that preschool, kindergarten, first, second, and third grades are receiving no English instruction when they should be receiving 2-3 hours per week.  It was decided that I will work in all three sites throughout the week, teaching preschool through third grade.  I will work both jornadas and bring my lunch to school because although I live about 10 minutes from school, in this heat it is not worth it to walk home for lunch! 

 

In addition to my work in the school I will be holding English classes for the community on Saturday mornings.  I have three, one hour classes (basic, advanced, and children’s).  I hope to start a club for young women (women’s empowerment/women’s health/pregnancy prevention/HIV-AIDS) and possibly another for young mothers that focuses on maternal health and infant care (there are a LOT of pregnant 13 year olds).  I am currently looking for a Colombian counterpart (preferably a successful young woman who would be a good role model) who would be interested in collaborating with me on these two projects as I the information would need to be delivered in Spanish which we all know is a work in progress for me.  Another thing I am interested in is a community project to clean up Bayunca.  The amount of trash thrown around is literally shocking especially considering there is semi regular trash pick-up.  This would be a shorter term project and possibly as simple as choosing a different sector each weekend and setting out with trash bags (I found someone who is interested in donating the bags).  Finally, Heidi (sister of the woman I work with) is interested in starting a foundation for children with special needs (she has a 15 year old with Down Syndrom).  I am really interested in collaborating with her and we have already held the first two meetings and there seems to be a lot of interest.  We have started going door to door doing a census of Bayunca and gathering information on the children with special needs.  We hope to find a space to offer physical therapy, recreation, and socialization for these children.  There are a lot of children with special needs here and they are generally refused services at the school and kept in their homes. 

 

What have you been doing for the last 7 weeks since we last heard from you?

On the one hand I feel like I have been constantly busy and that SO much has happened.  On the other hand, when I look back, I had a lot of downtime (I am currently reading my 16th book). I have only been into Cartagena a few times to buy things.  I have not seen other volunteers since training and really have only talked with a few.  As I do not have internet and my cell signal is so bad I have been a little cut off!  We have an amazing group and I miss seeing everyone all the time and knowing what everyone is up to, but on the other hand I have really come to enjoy spending time in Bayunca.  I have gotten to know my family really well and I have Colombian friends.  I learned to crochet (I am currently making a mochilla), I sit on the porch for hours at a time, I spend time in the tienda selling plastic stuff and chatting with neighbors, watching Colombian telenovelas, I am learning to cook all kinds of Colombian foods, and I go from house to house greeting people and drinking juice with them.  Since I wanted to wait to start any formal classes until I get established in the school, I have been giving individual and small group English classes as well as working on the project for children with special needs with Heidi.    

 

Highlights from the last 7 weeks:

-IGUANAS: I was sitting in a chair in front of a tienda when I spotted an iguana in the tree (not uncommon).  I pointed it out and the next thing I knew the woman I was sitting with had snatched the iguana and was slicing it open and taking out the eggs.  She then discarded the iguana and walked into the house with a huge smile on her face and a handful of iguana eggs.  I think my mouth was actually hanging open.  I have since learned that it is illegal to sell/eat iguana eggs as they are endangered.  Apparently the eggs are worth a lot and this is a common (albeit illegal) practice.  That will be the last time I point out an iguana.

 

-CRITTERS/ANIMALS: Since coming to Colombia just over four months ago, my tolerance for critters has increased immensely.  As I am now outside of the city, the critters have increased in both quantity and variety.  I am now completely fine with the little salamanders, ants, spiders (which are on steroids and grey here), grasshoppers/crickets (also on steroids), and the small variety of roaches.  These things either don’t hurt me or can be easily killed.  There aren’t really mice/rats in my house but there are in all the other houses, stores, etc.  They don’t bother me as much anymore (as long as they stay out of my room).  There are tons of burros, horses, pigs, cows, roosters, and chickens that wander around town and I have no idea who they belong to but I kind of like them.  Except for the roosters.  I don’t know who spread the rumor that roosters crow at sunrise.  While it may be true that the coincidentally crow at sunrise, they also do it in the middle of the night, the very early morning, and all day long.  Or maybe the Bayuncan roosters are just confused.  I still really don’t like cockroaches, crazy tropical scary bugs, snakes, frogs, and centipedes. 

My new  critter pet peeve is known here as un murcielago, aka BAT.  I have never been in very close contact with a bat before and I never imagined they would bother me.  I WAS WRONG.  These guys don’t just slowly float into the house and drift around as I had always pictures them doing.  They come barreling in through the doors, windows, cracks in the ceiling and immediately FLIP OUT.  They fly in all directions at top speed and swoop at me like they are actually trying to give me a heart attack.  They are scary looking and impossible to get out of the house.  Not only that but I am told that they bite and that they have rabies!  I usually react by jumping up and running away from them until I can find Numa who has a weapon that looks like a cross between a fly swatter and a tennis racket.  If we are near a door or window he tries to shoo them out, if not we say a little prayer and it’s lights out for the little guy.  My family thinks I’m crazy because they know I am terrified of the bats, but I always scream in protest when they go to kill them.  I explain that there are lots of things I don’t like that I don’t necessarily want dead!  I think they just add it to the list of my crazy gringa tendencies.

 

-INVITATIONS: They told us during training that the best way to integrate is to say yes to EVERYTHING.  I have been following this advice and literally saying yes to every invitation I receive.  Sometimes, if no invitation is extended, I just show interest until someone invites me!  I have been to weddings, baptisms, births, birthday parties, anniversaries, paseos, fincas, community celebrations, various churches, soccer games, graduation, cock fights, the UltraMar concert on the beach, other pueblos, a bull fight, and eaten dinner in the homes of countless other families in Bayunca.  Most of them were very positive experiences and a few were not so enjoyable (i.e. the cockfight that I ended up leaving early…).  I think this advice was the best I received because I feel like a part of my community and have had some really unique experiences and gotten to know a lot of people! 

 

-PICTURES: I regularly have random people come up to me and ask if they can take a picture with me or of me to send to their daughter, cousin, mother, son, etc.  Basically they want proof of the gringa who has come to live in Bayunca.  Everyone knows me (whether I know them or not).  I am the only gringa here (obviously).  I thought since I do not have blonde hair and I am pretty tan I might blend in.  Wrong.

 

-THE CIRCLE OF LIFE: Since coming to Bayunca just over a month ago, I have been witness to the circle of life in a whole new way.  I have personally watched (at close range) the births of a burro, a horse, a cow, six puppies, four cats, countless chicks hatching, and one human baby that was born in the home.  I have also seen a number of dogs and cats run over by cars on the highway in front of my house, a dead horse being carried away, a pig being killed for a celebration, a goat sacrifice, and have attended three human funerals. 

 

-STREET VENDORS: People walk around selling things like bollo, fruit, etc.  For example there is a man who pushes around a wheelbarrow with a tub full of fish.  At first I was a little alarmed that the fish I eat for lunch many times a week is being pushed around in an open tub in a wheel barrow down dirt roads, many of which are caked with sewage, and is not being refrigerated in any way.  When you buy the fish the man lays it on his wheelbarrow, scrapes off the scales, cuts it open with a knife and scoops out the guts with his hand and throws them on the ground, and puts the fish in a plastic bag.  I felt the same alarm when I noticed that the carnecerias have all parts of pig, cow, and chickens bodies (I’m talking organs, heads, etc.) hanging from hooks in front of their stores. This means the meat we eat is hanging out in the 90 degree burning sun for who knows how long.  One of the major health problems here is that there is no slaughterhouse (I know there is a nicer word for that but I can’t think of it!).  This means that the family who run the meat stores butcher the animals in the street in front of their homes and the carcases are thrown out with the trash or washed into the creek with the sewage.  It also means the meat we eat (before sitting in the heat all day) is butchered on a dusty wooden table that is rinsed off with unfiltered water at the end of each day.   A good friend and fellow volunteer gave me some advice awhile back which was “When in doubt, do as the locals do!”  I have been following that advice and have had no problems.  I now consider myself a recovered germaphobe J

 

-HONESTY: It is common practice here and not considered rude at all to comment on the physical appearance of other people directly to their face or to others.  At first this was a little uncomfortable for me but I am slowly getting used to it.  We will be sitting in a circle on the porch and someone will walk up and someone will say something along the lines of, “Wow, Marta, you look really fat today!”  It is common for people to have nicknames like ‘gordo’ or ‘flaca’ (fat or skinny).  When I wake up in the morning it’s like a little game I play to see what they are going to say.  Somedays I am looking thin, other days I am looking fat.  I never know if I should be flattered or offended because some people think skinny is good and others consider gaining weight good news.  Sometimes I look taller, sometimes I look really white.  If my face is broken out they will point it out and tell me it’s because I took my shower before the sun came up (it couldn’t possibly be because I sweat all day…).  If I am sunburned they will tell me that I need to put their weird home remedy on immediately or I will have ugly skin.  If I don’t have any makeup on they will tell me I need to put some on.  They do not mean any offense with any of these remarks, they just call it like they see it! 

 

-NOVIOS: Everyone in the entire town of Bayunca is determined to find me a Colombian boyfriend so that I will get married and stay here.  When I was introduced to a political leader in the community he shook my hand and the first words out of his mouth were, “We need to find a man for her to marry so she will stay in Colombia.”  People I hardly know will ask me what I think of men in Colombia or what I am looking for in a husband.  Everyone is shocked to find out that I do not already have a husband.  The typical conversation goes something like, “Are you married?”  “No.”  “Why not?!”.  I usually explain that I have other things I wanted to do before getting married (i.e. college, live abroad…).  They look at me with a confused expression and then start hatching a plan to marry me off.  They tell me I am good wife material (I am young, healthy, don’t have any children yet, and then of course there’s my gringa status).  I have had women bring their sons to my house and present them as potential husbands.  They will tell me all the reasons I should marry their son while he stands staring at me (he speaks some English, he went to college, he works on a farm, he doesn’t have any children yet, etc.)  It’s pretty awkward and also hilarious. 

 

-JESUS CHRISTO: I am Catholic and have never been happier to be able to say that as it makes my life here much easier.  While there are some Evangelical Christians here, I would say like 99% of Bayunca is Roman Catholic.  There is a sign on the front of my house that says, “We are Catholics, sons and daughters of the Virgin Mary, and we are not going to change our religion.”  A similar sign can be found on the majority of the houses.  I’m not sure who they think is going to try to change their religion since they are ALL Catholic….. “The Last Supper” hangs over the dinner table in every single home I have been into, portraits of Jesus and other various saints adorn the walls of every room, and there are crosses over a majority of the doors.  I have a calendar hanging in my room with Jesus on the front and a different saint on each page that was a gift.  I have various religious materials strewn around my room that have been given to me by family members.  We make little alters with candles and pictures of saints for everything and then we pray over them.  I cross myself every time I pass a Catholic church because I was told that is custom, and then reminded the next time I failed to do it.  I am crossed by other people an average of 5-10 times every day.  If I am going to go into Cartagena on the bus by myself I am usually prayed over by at least one family member, and the last time my aunt put a rosary around my neck before I could leave.  I go to church every Sunday and then on random weeknights when people feel like it as well as all holidays (religious or otherwise).  The church here is a very small cement building with small windows.  There are old wooden pews that snag whatever clothing you are wearing.  I am always wearing the same white eyelet skirt because it’s the only skirt I have that goes to my knees.  There are ceiling fans but they turn them off for the lighting of the candles.  It’s basically a sauna.  Not to mention it is ALWAYS jam packed, which means you sit with your sweaty, sticky arms pressed against the sweaty, sticky arms of the people next to you.  It is also not uncommon if you are a woman sans children for other people to put their babies and children on your lap (many single mothers with multiple children).  Outside of church I also spend a lot of time praying.  We pray at the beginning of every meeting at school, every community gathering, and most family gatherings.  Luckily the only part I have to say is, “In the name of the father, the son, and the holy spirit…amen.”  I have mastered that in Spanish along with ‘gracias a dios’ which people add to the end of nearly every sentence. 

 

-DIA DE LOS VEILITOS:  This holiday is celebrated on the night of December 7th each year and it also symbolizes the beginning of the Christmas season (even though everythings been decorated since October).  It has something to do with the Immaculate Conception (wikapedia it if you’re interested).  Apparently there are different traditions throughout Latin America, and even throughout different parts of Colombia.  Here on the coast the tradition is to light candles really late at night (there was some debate as to what time) and then keep them lit until 5am. We went to Cartagena in the evening so I could see the Centro at night for the first time and once it was dark we went and walked through the beautiful Walled City.  It was absolutely gorgeous.  Around 11:30pm we all headed out to Bayunca (Heidi…another sister….and her family live in Cartagena but spend almost every weekend in Bayunca).  We set up chairs on the patio and everyone sat around in the typical Colombian circle of plastic chairs.  Even though this is a religious holiday…they wasted no time in bringing out the whisky (people here drink either aguardiente or whisky on ice…for this reason I said I usually only drink beer which seems to be fine with everyone…they drink a LOT of beer).   We sat around talking, eating snacks, dancing, drinking, and relaxing.  Around 2am we lit the candles along the edge of the porch.  Then we sat around talking, snacking, dancing, drinking, and relaxing some more while keeping the candles lit.  Around 5:30am we decided to pack it in and call it a night as the faintest hint of sun was visible on the horizon.

 

-CHRISTMAS: Around December 14th extended family started showing up in Bayunca.  Some were staying with us, some with other family in Bayunca, some in other pueblos, and some in Cartagena.  I was never informed ahead of time when someone new was coming and I got the feeling sometimes no one knew when they were coming.  This continued all the way until Christmas and by the time the 25th rolled around I would estimate there were around 50 people here (10 of which were staying in the house).  On Christmas Eve we sat outside and waited for midnight so we could wish everyone a Feliz Navidad.  We ate bunuelos (like a ball made of cornmeal and cheese)and natilla (kind of like flan with raisins) which are both traditional for Christmas.  Alfredo (brother of Marlene) showed up with a dead giant rodent he had shot hunting.  It was hideous and terrifying.  What was more terrifying is that I knew I was going to have to eat it.  The men went in the backyard and built a fire and roasted him.  Then they covered him with foil and placemats and laid him on the table overnight (really…refrigeration is overrated…).  On Christmas Day the women spent most of the day cooking.  I watched “Santa Buddies” in Spanish with my grandpa.  For Christmas dinner we had fried fish and the grilled rodent.  It wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be (kind of resembled pulled pork) but I was seriously missing Christmas dinner at my Grandma’s house!  We spent the rest of the night sitting on the porch dancing, drinking whiskey and talking.  Marlene surprised me and had put credit on her phone for me to call my family.  My grandma answered the phone and I got to talk to my whole family.  This was my first Christmas away from home and it was really hard for me.  I hadn’t heard my families voices since we Skyped before I left Barranquilla.  Getting to talk to my family was pretty much the best gift I could ever receive.  It was definitely a very Colombian Christmas J

 

-NEW YEARS: Apparently New Years is a bigger deal here than Christmas.  We again spent the whole day cooking and around 7pm everyone went to change and get ready for the night.  Dressed up in Bayunca is a little different than in Cartagena or what I am used to at home.  I wore jeans and a sheer black top and was more than dressed up enough.  I came out when I was ready and one of the female relatives asked me if I was going to put make up on (I already had my makeup on… more than I normally wear).  I laughed and said of course and went back to my room and caked it on until I looked officially Colombian.    We had ham and coconut rice for dinner and then went outside where the drinking began around 8pm.  I decided to take one for the team and drink whiskey with everyone else (just at a much slower pace).  I lost track but I think the group went through somewhere around 10 bottles of whiskey and countless beers.  I watched one woman single handedly drink an entire bottle of whiskey.  At midnight we set of terrifying DIY fireworks and I was convinced someone was going to get fingers blown off (don’t worry…no one did).  Also, everyone makes mannequins out of paper and straw and then at midnight they light them on fire and dance around in the streets with them.  This was awesome until the fire spread and we all had to go inside and the men all ran out with water and put the fire out.  Once the smoke cleared we went back out and the dancing/drinking recommenced.  The house across the street had speakers set up one on top of another that were approximately the same height as their house.  They blared music so loud that I had to be almost touching my ear to the mouth of whoever was talking to me and I didn’t have a prayer of understanding anything.  I went to bed around 5:45am and the last people went to bed around 8am.  The music continued the rest of the day and into to following night.  Have I mentioned that Colombians know how to party? 

 

THINGS I DO A LOT OF BESIDES TEACHING ENGLISH:

Speaking Spanish, eating rice, eating fruit, eating weird meats, eating in general, killing mosquitos, watching telenovelas, talking to locals, saludos (greeting people with a kiss on the cheek and a como estas?), sweating, talking about how hot it is, listening to other people talk about how hot it is, thinking about how hot it is, sweeping, cooking, walking up and down the main road, explaining why I am here, explaining why I don’t have kids, explaining why I drink so much water, explaining my strange gringa habits in general, learning to crochet, sitting in people’s houses drinking juice, sitting on people’s porches drinking juice, pronouncing things in English for people, praying, going to church, thanking Jesus for things, sitting in my family’s tienda, saying adios to everyone who walks by the house, dancing, watching people dance, listening to very loud Colombian music, and occasionally I find time to shut my bedroom door and sweat it out in a natural bikram yoga session :)

Overall I am SO happy here in Bayunca.  I had some rough days when I first arrived and around the holidays, but I feel right at home now.  My family is amazing and they honestly feel like they are my real family.  My Spanish is getting better each day and I think I might even be getting used to the heat!  I miss my friends and family from home a lot (especially Heidi!) but in a different way than when I first got here.  I am where I want to be and I am so grateful for this opportunity.  I will update again as soon as I can. 

 

Paz y amor!

 

P.S. As I mentioned in the beginning of this SUPER long post…email is going to be the regular form of communication from now on so PLEASE send me emails…not on facebook…to my actual email address….I really want to hear from all of you! (or letters…it costs like a dollar and it’s fun!).  My email address is katiecmccarthy@hotmail.com

P.P.S. I will likely not be posting many (or any) pictures to my blog anymore since the internet is so slow.  All of my pictures will be posted on the Facebook link (click on my PICTURES tab at the top of the page). 

P.P.P.S. Shout out to two wonderful families!

#1: The Mulvaney Family!  Thank you SO much for the package and especially for the card with such kind words (it brought me to tears!).  I haven’t been able to get in touch with you because I haven’t had internet but I asked Andrew to thank you for me and I hope you got the message!  It meant so much to me and I can’t thank you enough :)

#2: My wonderful family.  Thank you for the package and for your unwavering love and support.  I wouldn’t be where I am if it weren’t for you.  I miss you and think of you everyday :)

 

Posted by: pckatie | November 24, 2012

Swearing In, Thanksgiving, and a Fiesta!

Swearing In Ceremony:
Monday morning was a very important event for the 29 trainees in CII-4. Many of us had been dreaming of this day for many years. Monday morning we stood and took the oath to become official United States Peace Corps Volunteers. We arrived at Universidad Del Norte with our host families and after being greeted by current volunteers and Peace Corps staff, everyone was seated in the auditorium. We spent the time leading up to the ceremony taking pictures and exchanging congratulations. At 10:00am the ceremony began. We heard speeches from George Baldino (Country Director), Oscar Mejia (training manager), Olga Gualteros (TEL program manager), and numerous representatives of the US embassy, Colombia, and Universidad del Norte. We rose as a group and sang the Colombian National Anthem that we have been practicing for so many weeks (nailed it!) and then sang the United States National Anthem. Normally I am not a super patriotic individual but there was something very special about standing with our hands on our hearts singing our nation’s national anthem as we begin our journey as ambassadors to the United States in Colombia. Next we took two oaths (one in English and one in Spanish). Then a microphone was passed and we individually introduced ourselves by stating our name, where we are from in the US, and our sites in Colombia (we did this in Spanish…nailed it again!) Nate and Allison were elected by our group to give the speech at the ceremony. The speech was in Spanish and they did a beautiful job. Finally there were closing remarks and then we watched two videos that talked about the Peace Corps history and current work in Colombia. It was so inspiring and really helped remind us why we are here and set us on the right foot as we head off to sites this weekend. After the ceremony we went outside where there was food, drinks, and three huge cakes! We took pictures, ate, talked to host families, and thanked the staff for all they have done for us. My host Mom had so many kind words and was so proud of me. It was so touching to share this moment that I will remember for the rest of my life with her. When all the food was gone, all the pictures had been taken, and we were all sufficiently drenched in sweat….it was over. We sent our host families home and a group of us headed to an overpriced Mexican food restaurant for lunch, margaritas, and beer that was NOT aguila light! We left with full hearts and smiles on our faces as we let the feeling sink in that we have finally made it….we are officially Peace Corps Volunteers. Congratulations CII-4…….here’s to the next two years!

Me, my mom, and JFK!

Me and my Spanish teachers Tatiana and Vanessa!

Cake!

CII-4 Swearing In Ceremony

Thanksgiving:
Thursday was Thanksgiving and to celebrate we were invited to the houses of three Peace Corps staff members. I went to Jason’s house with about 15 other volunteers from our group and the group before ours as well as some staff members. While nothing can compare to Thanksgiving back home, it was really wonderful to be able to spend the day with my Colombian/Peace Corps family. We got to Jason’s around noon and people played football, chatted, and enjoyed the sun. We had a delicious meal including turkey and gravy, stuffing, rosemary potatoes, green bean casserole, salad, cranberries, and lots of delicious desserts. Everyone ate until they were stuffed (and then ate some more) and sat around talking for a few hours. At my table we took turns saying what we were thankful for and everyone was thankful for the amazing opportunity we have here in Colombia and to be spending the day together. When I got home I Skyped with my family and it was great to talk to them all together. This was my first Thanksgiving I have ever been away from my family and while I missed them a lot, I had a really wonderful Colombian Thanksgiving!

Desserts

The coffee club.

Olga, Fabiola, Me, Allison

La comida!

Farewell Party:
On Friday, Kait’s and her host sister Vanessa decided to have a party to celebrate the end of training and see everyone one more time before we all head out to our sites. The theme was ‘patriotic’ so you could wear anything that represents your country or Colombia! We had a great time and I was glad to be all together one more time before we spread out. We have spent literally almost every waking moment all together for the last three months…I am really going to miss seeing everyone!

Farewell Fiesta

Me, Andrew, Kate

Me and Kerry (host cousins!)

Today I am spending the day packing (I seem to have accumulated a LOT of stuff since coming to Colombia!). My host mom works tomorrow so I will have to say goodbye to her tonight and give my family the little gift I put together for them. They have really become my family and it’s going to be hard to say goodbye and start all over again…but I have a good feeling about my future in Bayunca. Tomorrow afternoon I am heading out in a Puerta-a-Puerta with the other 5 volunteers going to Cartagena. I am really excited to unpack everything and really settle in as I will be staying put for the next two years! There is no internet in my house in Bayunca so I will be MIA for a little while. I am hoping to get internet set up if it is possible, I am just not sure how quickly I will be able to get that done. Wish me luck!
Until next time…..paz y amor.

Posted by: pckatie | November 18, 2012

Host Family Recognition and Commitment to Service

Host Family Recognition Day:

Last Monday was a holiday here in Colombia, so we took the opportunity to have a Host Family Recognition Day to celebrate the wonderful families we have been living with for the last three months during training. Constance and Alli took the lead in planning this event and did a wonderful job (thanks again ladies)! The event was held in a community room in a church near Los Andes where most of the trainees live. Unfortunately my family ended up not being able to come, but luckily Kerry’s host mom (my aunt) was willing to adopt me for the day along with abuela. When all of the families arrived, after we took pictures, there was time to snack and chat. Nate and Andrew MC’d the event (in Spanish!) and they killed it. Dianna gave a speech thanking the host families and telling them what an important role they have had in our experience. Kelsey played a local favorite by Carlos Vives on her guitar and sang and the families were amazed at her talent and beautiful voice. We finished off by teaching our families how to do the hokey pokey and eating apple pie. If that’s not a cultural exchange I don’t know what is.

Me and my mom after she got off work! (She is una enfermera)

Me and Olga with the certificate of appreciation for mi familia.


Me, Kerry, our Abuela, Olga (Kerry’s host mom/my host mom’s sister)


Commitment to Service:

Friday was our official last day of pre-service training as we will swear in on Monday. One of our last sessions was called ‘Commitment to Service’. We were each asked to prepare a short commitment to service to be shared with the group. We were told to think of this as our vows to our service. It is also something we will keep and reflect back on during our service and at the end of our two years. Everyone’s commitment was unique, but they all reflected similar sentiments. Some were hilarious, others were in poem form, and all were personal and touching.

Here is my commitment to service:

“Today as I reflect on my commitment to Peace Corps service, I think back to when our journey began 79 days ago as an enthusiastic and idealistic group of 30 in the Miami airport. Our story as it has been written thus far contains tales of host family adventures, countless hours in the Colombo, and more rice than we ever dreamed possible. We have been exposed to some of the realities of living and working as volunteers in Colombia, our roles working in sustainable development, and the expectations of us within the TEL program. As our first chapter comes to a close, I am reminded that there are many entries to come, and I am happy to say I still see that sense of idealism and enthusiasm in each one of us. As I reflect on all we have learned in an attempt to make a promise for my service I have found that there are countless goals, expectations, and commitments each of us could make to ourselves, one another, and our Colombian counterparts. So today I am making one simple promise. I promise to do my best. I promise to do my best to learn the language, take part in a cultural exchange, keep smiling, and get busy working alongside strangers who will become family, in a country that has already begun to steal my heart away.”

We swear in on Monday so next time I post…I will be an official Peace Corps Volunteer!

Until next time…..paz y amor.

Posted by: pckatie | November 4, 2012

Semana de Bilingüismo

Last week was bilingualism week in Barranquilla.  As Peace Corps volunteers who are here to help Colombian schools work towards their bilingualism goals in schools we were invited to visit schools throughout Barranquilla.  On Thursday afternoon we all piled into a bus and headed out in small groups to five different schools.  Me, Katie J, Colleen, Tom, and Jenna went to visit IED Marie Poussepin which is an all girls Catholic school.  In preparation to visit the schools we were told to go in with no expectations and be preapred for absolutely anything.  We were expecting something very disorganized and chaotic as has been our experience in many situations since coming to Colombia.  We could not have been any more plesantly surprised.

The wonderful staff who welcomed us to the school!

When we arrived (an hour late due to an unforseen traffic problem) we were greated by staff from the school and ushered past hundreds of students to an air conditioned room.  Next we were lead to a table covered with the Colombian flag and red, yellow, and blue balloons where we were showered with gifts (keychains, candy, dream catchers, bracelets, etc.)  A nun entered and told us all to sit down.  Then four students came in with silver serving trays and delivered watermelon juice, fruit salad, butifarra and bollo de yuca.  While we ate we were shown a powerpoint presentation all about Colombia.  Next came speeches in which we were welcomed to the school and told “Marie Poussepin is your home”.

When we finished eating we were lead out to the courtyard of the shcool where the entire student body and staff were already seated and quietly waiting for our arrival.  We were seated in chairs front and center where we were introduced to the students.  A group of precious little angelitos came out to greet us (Thursday was the dia de los angelitos).  Then a group of about 15 girls came out in traditional dress and performed some Colombian dances for us.  This was followed by speeches (completley in English) by a few students.

The students waiting patiently at the assembly!

Los Angelitos greeting us and just being all around adorable.

A fun dance performed by a group of students in traditional dresses…beautiful!

Jenna and Tom introducing our group….the students went CRAZY!

Overall I was so impressed with everything I saw at Marie Poussepin.  The staff were so warm and welcoming, the students were amazingly well behaved, and the level of English was astounding.  Not to mention the fact that the school itsself was adorable!  It was a wonderful experience and I felt so lucky to have the opportunity to be welcomed into a school community like that, and to have the opportunity to share in the accomplishments of their students!

Until next time…..paz y amor.

P.S. For those of you who have been asking….I updated my contact page : )

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